A taste of the Alps in Fuengirola at the Old Swiss House

Restaurant review

From molten raclette to golden rösti, this family-run institution offers a masterclass in Swiss tradition on the Costa del Sol

Dilip Kuner

Walking along the sun-scorched pavements of Fuengirola, you are hit by the usual sensory assault of the Costa del Sol: the scent of coconut sunblock, the sizzle of frying calamari, and the relentless, neon-bright glare of the Mediterranean. But turn a corner onto Calle Marina Nacional, and the humidity seems to drop by ten degrees. You aren’t in Spain anymore; you’ve stumbled into a pocket of high-altitude serenity.

Old Swiss House is a delicious architectural anomaly. It has been sitting here since 1981, a year when most of the surrounding seafront was still finding its feet. It was founded by Mateo and Isabella, a visionary pair of Swiss expats who moved to the Costa del Sol from Lucerne. Astoundingly, the restaurant is still in the family.

Today, their son and daughter, Carlos and Tamara, have taken over the reins and run the show with the kind of quiet, rhythmic efficiency usually reserved for the assembly of luxury watches. Chef Isabella and sous-chef Antonia are keeping the tradition of high-quality Swiss cuisine alive on the Mediterranean coast, having trained to the highest standards in Switzerland.

The décor is "clean" traditional - which is to say, it’s Alpine without being a theme park. There are wood carvings that speak of mountain lodges and snow-capped peaks, but it’s understated, elegant, and devoid of the kitsch that usually haunts "international" restaurants. The crowd is a polyglot soup of Swiss, German, Spanish, and English diners, all united by the common pursuit of high-fat, high-skill comfort.

The prelude: snails and sea

The meal began with a plate of Burgundy snails that were, frankly, muscular. These are not the dainty little garden variety you pick at in a tapas bar; these were hefty, earthy specimens swimming in a savoury herb sauce so vibrant I contemplated drinking it.

Across the table, my wife was contending with mussels au gratin. It’s a bold move to put a rich tomato sauce and a cheese crust on a local mussel, but here, the kitchen treats the seafood with the same reverence a mountain chef treats a prized calf. The result was a briny, bubbling success.

The intermission: the scrape

Then came the raclette. In the world of gastronomy, there are few sounds as seductive as the racler—the physical scraping of molten, toasted cow’s milk cheese from a massive wheel onto a waiting plate. It is the Valais region on a fork. It’s salty, pungent, and serves as a glorious, dairy-heavy bridge between the sea and the pasture.

The main event: a sauce masterclass

If you want to judge a kitchen’s soul, look at its sauces. My wife’s fillet of sole was a study in restraint. Poached to a point of shimmering translucence, it was draped in a champagne sauce that was airy, sophisticated, and carried just enough acidity to cut through the decadence.

I went for the Zürcher Art - milk-fed veal sliced into ribbons and bathed in a mushroom cream sauce that tasted like a warm hug from a Swiss grandmother. It was accompanied by a rösti that deserves its own fan club: a golden, crisp-edged disk of shredded potato that managed to be both light and profoundly satisfying. It also put my own sad and greasy efforts at homemade rösti rather in the shade.

Burgundy Snails were massive. (DK) Zürcher Art is a traditional dish from Zurich, and comes with rösti to die for. (DK) The breast of duck. (Old Swiss House) It would not be Swiss without Fondue. (Ols Swiss House) A sweet trear. (Old Swiss House)

The verdict

The skill and care here are palpable. In a town where many restaurants are content to churn out the "tourist menu" status quo, the brother-and-sister team at Old Swiss House are playing a different game. They are curators of a legacy.

By the time we reached the pudding - a curated selection of sweets that felt like a victory lap - the bustling streets outside felt a world away. This isn't just dinner; it’s a temporary relocation to a mountain plateau, and all for the price of a short walk from the marina.

The menu offers a deep dive into the Swiss culinary canon. For those seeking classic comfort, there is the Wienerschnitzel with French fries, or the Cordon Bleu. If you're in the mood for something heartier, they serve sliced calves' liver with that signature rösti, or a steak on a brick for a bit of table-side drama.

Seafood lovers can stray from the sole to try salmon in saffron sauce or king prawns with curry sauce, while those craving a mountain staple can opt for the Älplermagronen - an Alpine macaroni au gratin served with onion and apple compote. For a communal experience, they also offer cheese fondue and fondue chinoise, ensuring no one leaves without a true taste of the Alps.

The details

Price: Exceptionally fair for the level of technical skill. Starters from €10 and mains from €15.50 to €31.50 per person for the Chateaubriand.

Vibe: Friendly, multilingual, and deeply professional.

Note: They offer a short takeaway menu but do not provide delivery. If you want to take a taste of Switzerland home, you will have to arrange your own transport.

Plan your visit

Location: C. Marina Nacional, 28, 29640 Fuengirola

Contact: 952 47 26 06 | info@oldswisshouse.es

Tip: Booking in advance is highly recommended!

Website: oldswisshouse.com

Old Swiss House remains a masterclass in tradition, proving that after 40+ years, they are still one of the best dining rooms in Fuengirola.