A tough old business

Food and drink

Many readers will know people who have set up restaurants on the coast, dreaming of packed dining rooms, happy customers and healthy profits. But running a restaurant is one of the toughest businesses imaginable discovers columnist Andrew J. Linn

Andrew J. Linn

Many readers of this column will know people who have set up restaurants on the coast, dreaming of packed dining rooms, happy customers and healthy profits. But running a restaurant is one of the toughest businesses imaginable. The pandemic dealt a severe blow to the industry. Many restaurants relied heavily on locals for breakfasts, coffee breaks, lunches and evening trade. After lockdown, businesses found themselves with fewer customers.

Rent, utilities, licences and wages are fixed regardless of how many customers walk through the door. A restaurant may appear successful, while struggling to cover overheads. Staff management presents another difficulty.

Wine of the week

• Blume Verdejo

  This very popular white wine from Spain's highest-volume producing region is not, frankly, anything but a run-of-the-mill table wine without any pretensions in the quality stakes. However, it is reliable, good value and sells at around 5.50 euros.

Good chefs and attentive servers are invaluable, but are often overworked and in short supply. Poor service or inconsistent cooking can quickly damage a restaurant's reputation.

The initial investment is a minefield. Many newbies spend too much on décor and refurbishment, leaving insufficient funds to survive the waiting game. A beautiful dining room means little if there is no cash coming in to pay the bills.

Success ultimately depends on offering something distinctive, whether exceptional food, unique dishes or outstanding hospitality. Customers want value, generous portions and friendly, professional service.

Perhaps most importantly, a restaurant cannot usually be run from a distance. Owners need to be present, visible and involved. Problems require immediate attention. Restaurants are complex human enterprises where food, service, finance and personality must all mesh together. A talented chef can fail through poor management, while a modest establishment can thrive through consistency, warmth and hard work. Few businesses demand so much and forgive so little.