A gentler alternative to San Fermín in Andalucía

Festivals

Foreigners are often shocked by Pamplona’s famous festival because of the extreme danger and ethical concerns regarding animal welfare. In Andalucía, there is a more humane alternative: some towns in the region hold bull runs, often using wheeled carts or heifers instead of bulls

Alekk M. Saanders

Seville

Many tourists are shocked by how quickly the traditional July bull runs in the capital of Navarra can turn fatal or result in serious goring injuries. Since 1924, dozens have been injured every year. There have been quite a few fatalities including foreigners, amongst whom Britons and Americans are frequently mentioned.

It is often pointed out that foreigners taking part in the runs for the first time are frequently ill-prepared for the slippery streets and the crush of the crowd. So is it possible to avoid the stress and injuries whilst still celebrating San Fermín in traditional red and white attire, with a drink in hand and amid the festive atmosphere? The answer is yes. To do so, you need to head to a small town in Seville province.

San Fermín with Andalusian flavour

Several Andalusian towns hold their own, smaller-scale local ‘San Fermín’ festivals. The bull runs and the release of heifers are accompanied by brass band music and street celebrations, though all imbued with the characteristic Andalusian folk flavour.

However, unlike in Pamplona, such events usually take place after July and are timed to coincide with the local fair calendar. Apparently, the only town in Andalucía to hold a bull-related event on 7 July, the day of San Fermín, is Guillena. This is despite the fact that the date has no direct connection to the town’s festive calendar, as its patron saint is San Sebastián.

‘San Fermín’in Guillena is a quieter, family-friendly alternative, which is perfectly suited to sensitive, cautious and compassionate foreign visitors

Guillena is situated just 20 kilometres from Seville. It is particularly well known as a place where nature and tradition converge, and is popular with tourists, including foreign visitors, as it hosts the first stage of the ‘Silver Route’ on the Way of St James.

The famous ‘Water Route’ and the unique mountain cuisine, whose signature dish is rabbit salmorejo, also attract tourists to Guillena.

However, for almost ten years now, the town has been gaining a reputation as the venue for ‘San Fermín’, or more precisely, its quieter, family-friendly alternative, which is perfectly suited to sensitive, cautious and compassionate foreign visitors.

'Bulls' with refreshing jets of water

Calle Estafeta in Pamplona is the longest and most famous section of the ‘bull run’ route, stretching for around 300 metres. It is along this street that the half-tonne fighting bulls charge with particular ferocity towards the bullring.

In Guillena, the ‘bull run’ with wheeled carts takes place along the main street - Calle Real - leading to Plaza de España, where the town hall is located. Earlier this week, the opening fireworks were set off from the town hall balcony, after which the bull run began from the bullring.

This is a replica of the tradition in Pamplona, where the so-called ‘chupinazo’ - the firing of a single rocket from the town hall balcony - marks the start of the nine-day San Fermín festival featuring plenty of drinks (and in Sevillian way - 'rebujito', a sherry-based refreshing cocktail).

Additionally, in Pamplona, the traditional attire for San Fermín consists of a white shirt, white trousers and a touch of red in the form of a neckerchief and sash.

Legend has it that in 1931, people of humble origins founded ‘la peña’ and were looking for a uniform that would identify them whilst also distinguishing them from other groups.

White clothing was fairly easy to find, and was also very easy on any wallet. The red colour of the neckerchief symbolises the martyrdom of San Fermín, who was beheaded in the city of Amiens during the persecutions of the 3rd century.

In Guillena, the town council asks all participants to dress in white as well, and red neckerchiefs are distributed free of charge to everyone by the organisers.

"Every year, we welcome hundreds of people from across Seville province and, increasingly, foreign visitors too, to whom we love showing one of the most fun, participatory and safe traditions in our town".

Ana Isabel Montero

The event is organised by the Town Hall’s Department of Culture and the Guillena Bullfighting Club.

“Since 2017, in Guillena we have been keeping the Sanfermines tradition alive with some very special bull runs: carts simulating bulls racing down Calle Real, the very same place where cow runs used to be held as part of the festivities in honour of our patron saint, the Virgin of Granada.

Today, we have transformed that tradition into an activity designed for the whole family to enjoy, especially the little ones, who experience the thrill of the race whilst the ‘bulls’ surprise them with refreshing jets of water.

Every year, we welcome hundreds of people from across Seville province and, increasingly, foreign visitors too, to whom we love showing one of the most fun, participatory and safe traditions in our town,” Ana Isabel Montero, the councillor for festivals at Guillena town council, told SUR in English.